Patxi Usobiaga
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Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980), best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional
rock climber Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and ...
, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an
route Route or routes may refer to: * Route (gridiron football), a path run by a wide receiver * route (command), a program used to configure the routing table * Route, County Antrim, an area in Northern Ireland * ''The Route'', a 2013 Ugandan film * Ro ...
.


Biography

Usobiaga started climbing in Atxarte when he was 10 years old. For four years he was
belay Belaying is a variety of techniques climbers use to create friction within a climbing system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far. A climbing partner typically applies tension at the other end of t ...
ed by his father. When he was 15, he climbed his first 8a route, ''ConanDax Librarian'', in Araotz. When he was 18 he redpointed his first 8b route, ''Parva Naturalia'', in Araotz. From 1997 to 1999 he participated in youth competitions. In 2000, he started competing at the Lead Climbing World Cup. In 2003 he earned his first gold medal in
Edinburgh Edinburgh ( ; gd, Dùn Èideann ) is the capital city of Scotland and one of its 32 Council areas of Scotland, council areas. Historically part of the county of Midlothian (interchangeably Edinburghshire before 1921), it is located in Lothian ...
. When he was 26 he earned his first Lead climbing World Cup. Next year, he won his second one. Due to these outstanding achievements he was awarded the Salewa Rock Award in 2007. In 2009 he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in
Qinghai Qinghai (; alternately romanized as Tsinghai, Ch'inghai), also known as Kokonor, is a landlocked province in the northwest of the People's Republic of China. It is the fourth largest province of China by area and has the third smallest po ...
(CHN). At the end of 2009 he underwent a shoulder surgery and after three months of rehabilitative therapy he started training again. In June 2010 a car accident caused a painful
slipped disk Spinal disc herniation is an injury to the cushioning and connective tissue between vertebrae, usually caused by excessive strain or trauma to the spine. It may result in back pain, pain or sensation in different parts of the body, and physic ...
. In 2011, he announced his retirement from competitions. He climbed 267 routes graded between 8a and 9a+, 158 of which were onsighted. He was the first climber who onsighted a 8c+ route (''Bizi Euskaraz'', in Etxauri, 2007).


Rankings


Climbing World Cup


Climbing World Championships


Climbing European Championships


Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup


Lead


Rock climbing

Number of ascended routes: :* 4 :* 14 :* 31 (1 of which
onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
ed) :* 42 (7 of which
onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
ed) :* 87 and 8b+ (68 of which
onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
ed)


Redpointed routes

: :*''Pachamama'' -
Oliana Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - November 10, 2017 :* ''La novena enmienda'' -
Santa Linya Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 3, 2007 :* '' La Rambla'' - Siurana (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - November 22, 2007 - Fifth ascent :* '' Realization'' - Céüse (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) - July 29, 2004 - Third ascent : :* ''PuntX'' - Gorges du Loup (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) - September 10, 2010 :* ''Hades'' -
Nassereith Nassereith is a municipality and a village in the Imst district of Austria and is located 11 km north of Imst on the upper course of the Gurgl brook The Gurglbach is a river of Tyrol, Austria. The Gurglbach originates on the rock face near ...
(
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...
) - August 23, 2009 - Redpointed on second attempt. First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 :* '' Action directe'' -
Frankenjura Franconian Switzerland (german: Fränkische Schweiz) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main i ...
( ) - October 24, 2008 - Eleventh ascent :* ''Nice to eat you'' - Pierrot beach (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) - July 22, 2008 - Second ascent. First ascent by Mike Fussilier :* ''Fabela Pa La Enmienda'' -
Santa Linya Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - March 22, 2008 :* ''Mendeku'' - Egino (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 16, 2007 - Second ascent. First ascent by Iker Pou :* ''Fuck The system'' -
Santa Linya Les Avellanes i Santa Linya is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of Noguera, in the province of Lleida, Catalonia Catalonia (; ca, Catalunya ; Aranese Occitan: ''Catalonha'' ; es, Cataluña ) is an autonomous community of Spain, design ...
(
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 9, 2007 - First ascent :* ''Esclatamasters'' - (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 7, 2007 - Third ascent. First ascent by
Ramón Julian Puigblanque Ramón or Ramon may refer to: People Given name * Ramon (footballer, born 1998), Brazilian footballer * Ramón (footballer, born 1990), Brazilian footballer *Ramón (singer), Spanish singer who represented Spain in the 2004 Eurovision Song Contest ...
:* ''Faxismoaren txontxogiloak'' - Etxauri (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 22, 2007 - First ascent :* ''Begi Puntuan'' - Etxauri (ESP) - December 1, 2006 - First ascent :* ''Kinematix'' - Gorges du Loup (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) - June 14, 2006 :* ''Psikoterapia'' - Valdegobia (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - July 8, 2004 - First ascent :* ''Iñi Ameriketan'' - Baltzola (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - April 1, 2003 :* ''Il Domani'' - Baltzola (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - March 21, 2003 - First ascent


Onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
ed routes

: :* ''Bizi Euskaraz'' - Etxauri (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - December 11, 2007 - First ascent and first-ever 8c+ onsight in history. Project by Ekaitz Maiz. : :* ''Absinth'' - Sparchen (
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) *Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations *Arriva ...
) - July 25, 2010 :* ''Nuska'' - Baltzola (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - August 1, 2008 :* ''Home sweet home'' - Pierrot Beach (
FRA A friar is a member of one of the mendicant orders founded in the twelfth or thirteenth century; the term distinguishes the mendicants' itinerant apostolic character, exercised broadly under the jurisdiction of a superior general, from the ol ...
) - July 20, 2008 :* ''Omerta'' -
Urnersee __NOTOC__ Lake Lucerne (german: Vierwaldstättersee, literally "Lake of the four forested settlements" (in English usually translated as ''forest cantons''), french: lac des Quatre-Cantons, it, lago dei Quattro Cantoni) is a lake in central ...
( ) - July 15, 2008 :* ''Mosca cullonera'' - Montsant (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - November 30, 2007 :* ''Pata negra'' - Rodellar ( Bierge, (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - October 7, 2006 :* ''Gaua'' - Lezain (
ESP ESP most commonly refers to: * Extrasensory perception, a paranormal ability ESP may also refer to: Arts, entertainment Music * ESP Guitars, a manufacturer of electric guitars * E.S. Posthumus, an independent music group formed in 2000, ...
) - October 10, 2005


See also

*
List of grade milestones in rock climbing In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint (climbing), redpoint, onsight or flash (climbing), flash of a pitch (ascent/descent), single-pitch, multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch (or big wall climbing, big wall), or bouldering ...
*
History of rock climbing In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advan ...
* Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals


References


External links

{{DEFAULTSORT:Usobiaga, Patxi 1980 births Living people Spanish rock climbers World Games gold medalists World Games silver medalists Competitors at the 2005 World Games Competitors at the 2009 World Games IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists Sportspeople from Eibar